Inside the ancient palmento of I Vigneri, wine is still made in the old Etna way, the juice passing by gravity through volcanic-stone rooms where crushing and fermentation unfold beneath the same roof.

A History Born of Fire

Christopher Barnes

The region of Etna boasts a remarkable history of wine production that spans over 6,000 years. Its fertile lands have attracted the attention of various civilizations, from the early medieval period to the Renaissance.

Following the devastating earthquake of 1693 and the subsequent tsunami, the southern slopes of Mount Etna gained significant importance for vineyards and the cultivation of the Nerello Mascalese grape. This led to a surge in the production of cutting wines, blending wines, and the distillation of wine during the phylloxera outbreak in the late 1800s.

However, World War II inflicted severe damage to the eastern part of Sicily, including Mount Etna and its surrounding countryside. This resulted in the abandonment of many vineyards. It wasn’t until the 1990s that a renewed interest in quality wine production emerged, with a focus on indigenous varieties like Carricante and Nerello Mascalese.

Over time, the area has seen a multitude of grape varieties introduced by various groups, including the Greeks, Crusaders, Benedictine and Capuchin monks, the Bishop of Catania, and the Spanish. Each grape has contributed something special to the area’s wines. Even now, vineyards may have a mix of Carricante and Nerello Mascalese, along with other indigenous cultivars like Coda di Volpe, Grecanico, Minnella Bianca, and Minnella Nera, each adding a unique flavor to the wines.

The area’s volcanic soils also play a vital role in contributing to the minerality and texture of the wines. The combination of its rich history, diversity of grape varieties, and unique terroir makes Etna one of the most special wine regions in the world.

Salvo Foti on the Palmento tradition

The agricultural landscape on Etna is characterized by numerous beautiful and ancient manor houses, most of which are now abandoned. These properties were once owned by peasants, bourgeois, and nobles. Each vineyard had a home for the owner’s family and a palmento, which is a winemaking cellar for transforming the grapes grown on the property. The palmento, with its terraced vineyards, narrow streets, and dry stone walls, all built with lava stone, is surprisingly harmonized with the Etnean environment.

 
Even today, one can observe palmenti on Etna with varying vinification capacities, ranging from essential to sumptuous, and capable of producing anywhere from a few to thousands of hectoliters of wine. A defining feature of the manufacturing of Etna palmento is the use of lava stone and the exploitation of the natural slope and rugged orography of the Etna area. This design allows the force of gravity to aid in winemaking, with the crushing area, fermentation vats, pressing area, and cellar located at different and sloping altitudes.
 
From the end of the 1800s to the beginning of the 1900s, the Etna area produced approximately 100 million liters of wine using exclusively palmenti. While some modernizations and technical changes were implemented with the arrival of electricity, the system remained fundamentally the same.
 
In 1997, with the strict and indiscriminate application of EU laws on food hygiene and safety at work, the palmenti of Etna were banned and definitively closed. This led to the abandonment of thousands of palmenti and Etna vineyards and their irreversible destruction. While some producers continue to use the palmento to make their wine, they do so illegally. The lack of exceptions in the application of community laws designed to allow for gradual and financially sustainable adaptation of the Etna palmenti has led to their degradation, the abandonment of large areas of the Etna territory, and the loss of specialized winemaking workforce.
 
Adapting the Etna palmenti to modern winemaking techniques is necessary and indispensable if the remaining real estate and human assets are to be preserved. New techniques, greater knowledge, and a more conscious way of thinking can help integrate and harmonize the old with the new. The transition must be gradual and the changes not destructive but integrative and complementary.
 
Recovering and using the ancient palmenti is not only essential for maintaining, conserving, and safeguarding the territory and all that it contains and represents, but it also means recovering, using, and making productive the ancient winemaking techniques that are fundamental in producing excellent wine.
 
Laws must be reviewed to take into account real situations and adapt to existing ones while looking to the future. They must be at the service of humanity, not against it or only for the benefit of a few.
 

Marco de Grazia

Marco was one of the leading figures in the modernist Barolo movement. He was a well-known wine distriubutor of small,…

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Ciro Biondi

Enchanted by Etna wine culture, Ciro grew up crushing grapes with his feet and loving every minute spent in the vineyard just outside his childhood home. Who wouldn’t, among volcanic craters of alberello-type vines with an immaculate view of coastal…

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Eduardo Torres

The thing that made me come here to Etna is the volcano, that it is currently an active volcano. The soil. The possibility to cultivate in high altitudes and small parcels.
For example going from 500 meters to 1,000…

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Alberto Graci

In 2004 Graci sold his grandfather’s land and used the proceeds to buy land on Mount Etna, and is amongst the group of Etna pioneers including Foti, Franchetti, Cornelissen, de Grazia and Benanti who over the last twenty years have…

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Passopisciaro

In 2000 Andrea Franchetti decided to restore an old farm and cellars on the slopes of Mount Etna, an active volcano in northeastern Sicily. The winery sits at about a thousand meters of altitude above the small wine town of…

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Mario Paoluzi

Mario is the owner of I Custodi, an artisanal winery located on the northern slope of Mt. Etna in Sicily. I Custodi refers to themselves as the “keepers” or the “guardians” of Mt. Etna’s vineyards. Their mission is to preserve…

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Calabretta

The Calabretta wines hail from the DOC of Etna Rosso in northeastern Sicily. The vineyards are planted between 300 and 900 meters on the slopes of Mount Etna, an active volcano that looms in the distance for much of eastern…

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Generazione Alessandro

High-quality wine has been in Ciro Biondi’s family since the 17th century, proven early on by his grandfather, Cirino, who won awards in Italy and abroad: Casal Monferrato 1913, Paris 1914, Lyons 1914, Cuneo 1914, and Milano 1914. At that…

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Costanzo

The vineyards of Palmento Costanzo are located in Contrada Santo Spirito, in Passopisciaro, a small town near Castiglione di Sicilia. This is the heart of the Parco Naturale dell’Etna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Etna is teeming with biodiversity:…

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BARONE VILLAGRANDE

The Nicolosi Asmundo family has been living with the vine in Milo on the eastern slope of Etna for over 300 years. Records from the early 18th century show the Bishop of Catania gave the family the task to turn…

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Stef Yim

Originally from Hong Kong, Stef Yim began his wine career working as a sommelier in fine dining establishments in Los Angeles. His passion for wine soon led him to the Lake County area of northern California where he learned winemaking,…

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Alice Bonaccorsi

Alice is dedicated to solely growing native grape varietals with natural practices and showing off her gnarly old vines. The wine does the talking for her. Bonaccorsi vineyards is located on the northeastern side of Mount Etna, between the Passopisciaro and Randazzo contradas.

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History

The region of Etna boasts a remarkable history of wine production that spans over 6,000 years. Its fertile lands have attracted the attention of various civilizations, from the early medieval period to the Renaissance.

Following the devastating earthquake of 1693 and the subsequent tsunami, the southern slopes of Mount Etna gained significant importance for vineyards and the cultivation of the Nerello Mascalese grape. This led to a surge in the production of cutting wines, blending wines, and the distillation of wine during the phylloxera outbreak in the late 1800s.

However, World War II inflicted severe damage to the eastern part of Sicily, including Mount Etna and its surrounding countryside. This resulted in the abandonment of many vineyards. It wasn’t until the 1990s that a renewed interest in quality wine production emerged, with a focus on indigenous varieties like Carricante and Nerello Mascalese.

Over time, the area has seen a multitude of grape varieties introduced by various groups, including the Greeks, Crusaders, Benedictine and Capuchin monks, the Bishop of Catania, and the Spanish. Each grape has contributed something special to the area’s wines. Even now, vineyards may have a mix of Carricante and Nerello Mascalese, along with other indigenous cultivars like Coda di Volpe, Grecanico, Minnella Bianca, and Minnella Nera, each adding a unique flavor to the wines.

The area’s volcanic soils also play a vital role in contributing to the minerality and texture of the wines. The combination of its rich history, diversity of grape varieties, and unique terroir makes Etna one of the most special wine regions in the world.

Salvo Foti on the Palmento tradition

The agricultural landscape on Etna is characterized by numerous beautiful and ancient manor houses, most of which are now abandoned. These properties were once owned by peasants, bourgeois, and nobles. Each vineyard had a home for the owner’s family and a palmento, which is a winemaking cellar for transforming the grapes grown on the property. The palmento, with its terraced vineyards, narrow streets, and dry stone walls, all built with lava stone, is surprisingly harmonized with the Etnean environment.

 
Even today, one can observe palmenti on Etna with varying vinification capacities, ranging from essential to sumptuous, and capable of producing anywhere from a few to thousands of hectoliters of wine. A defining feature of the manufacturing of Etna palmento is the use of lava stone and the exploitation of the natural slope and rugged orography of the Etna area. This design allows the force of gravity to aid in winemaking, with the crushing area, fermentation vats, pressing area, and cellar located at different and sloping altitudes.
 
From the end of the 1800s to the beginning of the 1900s, the Etna area produced approximately 100 million liters of wine using exclusively palmenti. While some modernizations and technical changes were implemented with the arrival of electricity, the system remained fundamentally the same.
 
In 1997, with the strict and indiscriminate application of EU laws on food hygiene and safety at work, the palmenti of Etna were banned and definitively closed. This led to the abandonment of thousands of palmenti and Etna vineyards and their irreversible destruction. While some producers continue to use the palmento to make their wine, they do so illegally. The lack of exceptions in the application of community laws designed to allow for gradual and financially sustainable adaptation of the Etna palmenti has led to their degradation, the abandonment of large areas of the Etna territory, and the loss of specialized winemaking workforce.
 
Adapting the Etna palmenti to modern winemaking techniques is necessary and indispensable if the remaining real estate and human assets are to be preserved. New techniques, greater knowledge, and a more conscious way of thinking can help integrate and harmonize the old with the new. The transition must be gradual and the changes not destructive but integrative and complementary.
 
Recovering and using the ancient palmenti is not only essential for maintaining, conserving, and safeguarding the territory and all that it contains and represents, but it also means recovering, using, and making productive the ancient winemaking techniques that are fundamental in producing excellent wine.
 
Laws must be reviewed to take into account real situations and adapt to existing ones while looking to the future. They must be at the service of humanity, not against it or only for the benefit of a few.