The Grapes of Etna
Christopher Barnes
Nerello Mascalese
This aromatic grape forms the backbone of Etna red wines, and Etna Rosso DOC wines must have a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese. Its small berries and deep purple skin with pink highlights are similar in appearance to Pinot Noir, but the grape has thicker skins and produces more tannic wines. Wines made from Nerello Mascalese featuring notes of almond, cherry liquor, herbs, and red fruits, as well as balsamic and menthol notes in some cases. These wines typically have a pale to medium garnet color and high acidity, with the potential for aging. Surprisingly, some aged wines may display a deep ruby color.
Nerello Mascalese. Photo: pauljill
Nerello Cappuccio
Nerello Cappuccio is used for blending in Etna red wines, adding color and fruit to the blend. Most Etna Rosso DOC wines will have between 10 to 20% (the maximum allowed) in the blend. Benanti has produced a 100% Nerello Cappuccio wine to showcase its unique characteristics, which include a light ruby color and soft fruit flavors of red fruits and strawberry. Contrary to the common belief that the grape adds structure and color to the blend, Nerello Cappuccio is better suited for adding charm and fruitiness.
Carricante
This is the primary grape used in Etna white wines, meaning “abundant crop” in Italian. At present, white wines make up only 8% of the total Etna wine production, but this figure is on the rise as the exceptional qualities of the Carricante grape become better understood. Marco de Grazia, a pioneer in Etna winemaking, originally intended to produce red wines, but was taken aback by the potential quality of Carricante wines. According to de Grazia, while Nerello Mascalese is challenging to cultivate, it is comparatively easier to produce wines from, whereas Carricante is the opposite: simple to grow, but difficult to turn into a great wine. This point is evident when sampling Etna Biancos, as they are stylistically diverse with varying aromas such as grapefruit, apple peel, lemon peel, herbal, almond, and floral notes. The finest exhibit a characteristic waxiness, akin to Loire Chenin, and boast exceptional minerality.
Catarratto
Catarratto is the primary white grape in Sicily but is used only in small quantities for blending in Etna Bianco. Other grape varieties grown on Etna include Alicante (Grenache), Rosso Minnella, Pinot Nero, Minnella, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer, which are also used in minor blending roles or as varietals.
Minnella
Minnella is an indigenous grape that is exclusively grown in the Etna region and is often found growing alongside Nerello Mascalese and Carricante in older vineyards. The name “Minnella” (“Minnedda janca”) was given to the grape by Etna winemakers due to the unique shape of the berry, which resembles a breast (“minna” in dialect). It can be used in the production of Etna DOC wines, along with Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Carricante, up to a maximum of 10%. It ripens between the second and third week of September, earlier than the other native grape varieties of Mount Etna, which ripen in the first 20 days of October.
What about those gnarly vines?
All over Etna you will find patches of gnarly, old vines. The combination of volcanic and sandy soils (as well as the high elevations) found on the mountain proved to largely stave off phylloxera. And though the vine louse did eventually hit the region, it scarcely travelled above 400 meters above sea level. A similar phenomenon was seen elsewhere in Italy, such as in Campania and even further north in the Soave DOC, where vines on volcanic soils were better able to endure the great wine blight of the latter 1800s, and thus boast many sites where what might be considered “over-mature” vines continue to produce grapes. The advantage of these old vines is their naturally low yields. Vines producing fewer grapes will produce more deeply concentrated grapes, and the abundance of old vines on Etna contribute to the unique power that can be found in these wines.
Salvo Foti is a winemaker who pays tribute to some of his older vines with an Etna Rosso bottling he refers to as “Vinupetra Viti Centenaire.” The grapes harvested for this label are entirely from vines 100+ years in age, and the plot for this bottling covers a mere 0.2 hectares, it is a rare cuvee, but one that shines a spotlight on some of Etna’s most unique features.