Etna's Terroir

Christopher Barnes

The Etna region is known for its unique truncated-conical shape, as well as being a large mountain and an active volcano with an altitude of over 3,000 meters. Its distinct climate, which is unique in the world, also adds to its character as a “North” in the South. The geology of the area, with different lava flows, results in a variety of pedoclimatic environments that have influenced the local flora and fauna, as well as the people who live there, who Salvo Foti refers to as Homo Ætneus.

Etna’s soils are composed of volcanic sands of varying textures, consisting of different lava flows and ages. The disintegration of lava flows of variable age with different minerals means there is significant variability from one area of the volcano to another. Depending on the slope of the terrain, the soil can also contain an abundance of ashes and lapilli from each lava flow, which can occur throughout the year. These components are rich in particular and unique minerals. Therefore, the terrains of Etna can be defined as virgin, primordial, visceral, and in constant change. It is crucial to note that Etna is a perpetually active volcano that never stops.

The terroir was so distinctive that when Frank Cornelissen first arrived, he thought it was like Piemonte from the ‘70s, the ‘80s and he thought, “Wow, I found a new Piemonte!”

Elevation

Etna’s highest vineyards are some of the highest that can be found in all of Italy – comparable to those of the Alpine region of Alto Adige – and are among the highest vineyard sites in all of Europe. Elevations such as these, which can reach well over 1,000 meters above sea level, often see snow year round. Even in the warmest years you can expect the climate near the summit to be a far cry from the lower lying vineyards of western and southern Sicily, where the bright Mediterranean sun can make over-ripeness a main harvest concern. At such great heights the diurnal shifts are severe, with ample, warming sun during the day and a bracing chill at night. This encourages exceptional balance in the resulting wines, as the grapes are able to achieve adequate ripeness but also retain their refreshing acidity. So while we expect bigger, more fruit-driven styles from much of Sicily, Etna’s wines are distinguishable by their typically leaner and brighter expression.

Etna DOC

The Etna DOC wraps around the mountain in a backwards “C” shape, almost completely negating the western slope. Most of the best sites for Etna’s main red varietal, Nerello Mascalese, can be found between 600-900 meters above sea level stretching from the north slope of the mountain around the eastern flank, including the contrade of Guardiola, Calderera Sottana, and Feudo di Mezzo to name just a few. Within the eastern municipality of Milo is the only area on the mountain where Etna Bianco Superiore (a white wine DOC with stricter restrictions than that of Etna Bianco) can be made. Here you’ll find the contrada Rinazzo, prized for its Carricante, the major white varietal of Etna. The grapes grown here are so special that Benanti’s iconic Pietramarina bottling is made from 100% Carricante from this site, forgoing the more traditional practice of blending with Cataratto or other local grapes.