The contrade of Etna
Piers Parlett
Pick up a bottle of Etna Rosso from a good producer and there is a fair chance you will see a second name on the label, something like Calderara Sottana, Guardiola or Santo Spirito. These are contrade, and they have become the way people talk about Etna wine. If you want to understand the mountain, they are a good place to start.
What a contrada is
A contrada is an old, named rural district. Think of it as a neighbourhood of the countryside rather than a single vineyard. The boundaries come from historic land registry maps, and one contrada can hold several owners, a scatter of vineyards, some woodland and the odd farmhouse.
Since 2011 the Etna DOC has allowed producers to put the name of a contrada on the label, as long as it comes from an official list in the rules. That list named 133 contrade, spread across nine comuni, with Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo on the north slope holding the most.
In 2022 the Consorzio published a new map with 142. Lava flows, roads and new building had left the old maps out of step with the land, so some boundaries were redrawn as well as new names added. You will still see both numbers quoted. The short version is 133 in the 2011 rules, 142 on the 2022 map.
Why they taste different
Etna is an active volcano, and it keeps resurfacing itself. Every eruption leaves a new lava flow, which the locals call a sciara, and over time those flows break down into soil. A vineyard on a flow a few hundred years old grows in something very different from one on ground that has had thousands of years to weather. Two contrade side by side can sit on lava of completely different ages.
Height matters just as much. On the north slope, vineyards climb from around 500 metres to about 1,000 metres, which is the upper limit of the DOC. The higher sites are cooler, ripen later and tend to give wines that are more taut and perfumed. Exposure, slope and how much ash is in the soil all add to the differences.
The edges of the lava flows are often easy to see. Near Passopisciaro and Randazzo, the 1981 eruption covered roughly 200 hectares, and the black, broken rock still runs right up to the vines. The rules use that same flow as a boundary for some of the Randazzo contrade.
The people who put contrade on the map
Two outsiders did more than anyone to make the contrada the unit of Etna wine.
Andrea Franchetti, who already made wine at Tenuta di Trinoro in Tuscany, came to Etna in 2000 and set up Passopisciaro. From the 2008 vintage he bottled each of his sites separately, so drinkers could taste Guardiola next to Rampante next to Sciaranuova and see what the place did. He labelled them with single letters, G, R, S and so on, and sold them as Terre Siciliane rather than Etna DOC. He also started the Contrade dell’Etna, a gathering where producers opened bottles from their own sites together. It began in 2008 (one source says 2007) and is still running; the 17th edition was held in Randazzo in April 2026. Franchetti died in 2021.
Marco de Grazia founded Tenuta delle Terre Nere in 2002 and took the same idea into the DOC, bottling Etna Rosso from named contrade such as Calderara Sottana, Guardiola, Santo Spirito and Feudo di Mezzo. Others followed, and today most serious producers on the north slope make at least one contrada wine.
Contrade worth knowing
Calderara Sottana, Randazzo. Home to some very old vines. Terre Nere’s Prephylloxera wine comes from less than a hectare of vines more than 130 years old here, and Girolamo Russo also bottles a Calderara Sottana.
Guardiola, Castiglione di Sicilia. A high site, roughly 800 to 1,000 metres, on the edge of the 1947 lava flow. Both Passopisciaro and Terre Nere make wine from it.
Santo Spirito, Castiglione di Sicilia. Terre Nere’s Santo Spirito comes from vines between about 40 and 100 years old at around 700 metres.
Feudo di Mezzo, Castiglione di Sicilia. Another Terre Nere cru, with very old vines and Planeta’s Etna winery next door.
Rampante, Castiglione di Sicilia. Steep, north-facing terraces close to 1,000 metres, right at the top of the DOC. Franchetti bought vines here in 2000.
Barbabecchi, Castiglione di Sicilia. High, old vines that go into Frank Cornelissen’s Magma, which he labels Terre Siciliane rather than DOC.
Arcuria, Castiglione di Sicilia. Alberto Graci’s Arcurìa Etna Rosso comes from here.
Rinazzo, Milo. On the east slope, and the source of Benanti’s Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore, from small terraces of old Carricante.
Monte Serra, Viagrande. On the south-east side, and home to Benanti’s Contrada Monte Serra Etna Rosso.
Reading the label
On a DOC wine, the contrada name follows the type of wine, so you will see something like “Etna Rosso DOC” alongside “Calderara Sottana”, or “Contrada Rinazzo” on an Etna Bianco Superiore. The rules don’t fix exactly where the name goes or how big it is, so layouts vary from producer to producer.
Two things can catch you out. First, a wine’s name can match a contrada somewhere else. Benanti’s Pietra Marina comes from Contrada Rinazzo in Milo, not from the contrada called Pietra Marina in Castiglione di Sicilia. Second, some of the best-known single-site wines, such as Passopisciaro’s lettered wines and Cornelissen’s Magma, are labelled Terre Siciliane, so they carry no DOC contrada at all.
What comes next
The Consorzio voted in 2023 to apply for DOCG status, the top tier of Italian wine law. The proposed rules include lower yields for contrada wines and adding the name of the comune to labels. At the time of writing the change was still going through the approval process.
Whatever the paperwork says, the best way to understand the contrade is to taste them side by side. Pick two wines from the same producer and different sites, open them together, and the mountain does the explaining.
Find producers by slope in our winery directory, or read more about the mountain’s terroir.
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