The Tasca family has made wine in Sicily for centuries; Alberto Tasca discovered Etna while on holiday, and in 2006 made wine from south-slope Nerello grapes — promising but something was missing. The following year, north-slope Nerello produced an elusive, austere wine: exactly what he remembered. The company then bought and restored 99 terraces in Piano Dario, left to nature for decades — two years to organize, four more to establish a house style.